SHIVARNIKA

Varanasi

Banarasi Sarees — Handwoven Katan Silk from Varanasi

A Banarasi saree is defined by its loom, not its motif. Ours are woven in Madanpura and Sarai Mohana on pit looms, in katan silk, with the kadhwa technique — each motif worked in place rather than floated and cut behind the cloth. A full jangla pallu can hold a weaver for five months.

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How to read a real Banarasi

Turn the saree over. On a kadhwa weave the reverse is clean, with no long floats between motifs. Real zari has a silk core and warms in the hand; a fine Banarasi will feel weighty at the pallu and supple at the body.

When it is worn

Traditionally a bridal and ceremonial drape — phera, reception, and the first Diwali after a wedding. Lighter jangla and buti pieces carry well through a wedding season without feeling costume.